Tuesday, March 27, 2007

South Coast



The south coast offers a sense of separation from the rest of Kenya and the introduction to an even more relaxed pace of life than the rest of the coast. This is due in part to the fact that the road south of Mombasa Island crosses the channel on the Likoni Ferry. No bridge, just the ferry, which slowly carries passengers and vehicles back and forth. With luck, you'll get to the other side without the ferry breaking down and drifting while they try to fix it (it's OK, it doesn't happen that often).
Once off the ferry, you can head south to Tiwi and Diani Beaches. Tiwi is nice but Diani is simply incredible. If you have ever imagined a "perfect" tropical beach, Diani is the place. Beautiful soft white sand, clear water, a reef only twenty minutes of easy swimming offshore, and palm trees lining the beach make Diani what it is. Diani is definately one of Kenya's top beaches, and I have plenty of friends who will readily agree.

Most of the hotels offer the usual boat rides and windsurfing for a price, and it isn't hard to get involved in a volleyball game. Snorkeling equipment is also available for rent and scuba diving is becoming more popular. If you just want to relax, however, take a walk down the beach, enjoy the sun and try not to think about leaving.
Most people heading farther south don't stop until they hit Shimoni, but there are numerous beaches between Diani and Shimoni that are well worth stopping at and generally much more secluded. Shimoni is the base for those who love sportfishing. It is also worth a visit to the coral caves which are the area's namesake (shimo means 'cave' in Swahili). The caves were apparently a secret refuge from the Maasai and other raiders (and some say from slavers) and are reached by descending a ladder through a hole in the ground. The caves extend about 20 kilometeres (about 12.5 miles) underground.
Just south of Shimoni is Wasini Island, which is only one by five kilometers. There are no cars and it only takes a couple of hours to walk around it. The best part is the snorkeling in the nearby Kisite-Mpunguti National Park, which is amazingly good. The water is crystal clear and deep enough to see some sizable fish.

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